“Whe’ yu’ from?”
The question was put to me as I wandered, camera in hand, in the old
square of Spanish Town, Jamaica’s former capital. The local man,
lounging in the shade of one of the colonial Georgian buildings that
enclose the square, was mildly curious about what he took to be a
typical white tourist photographing the sights of the decayed historic
town. At that time, my home was in Kingston where I lived with my wife
and baby son. I was then working in the Jamaican Government Town
Planning Department in a job that took me all over the island. Turning
to my questioner, I replied, “Kingston”. There was a brief pause, then
the man spoke again: “No Man! Whe’ yu’ really from?”
I still have difficulties when asked this question. Where am I
from? What does the question mean? Does it refer to where I was born,
where I spent my previous life or where I now live? Does it have a
broader meaning, an enquiry about my origins in terms of family
background and previous experience? The following chapters are my
attempt to answer these questions for my own satisfaction and, I hope,
for the amusement of others who may be interested in the life of a
working class English boy whose dream to travel and see the world was
realized in ways he could not possibly have imagined.
HOBDALE
A childhood place important to me in a different way was another
little valley with a stream but with no woods. Its name is Hobdale, the
Valley of Hob. Here can be found both Hobdale House and Hobdale Terrace,
where I was born. Hob is a mischievous sprite who figures in local
folklore. On the map the stream is marked Boos Beck, its name given to
the nearby village where I first went to school close to one of
Cleveland’s then still active ironstone mines. For those of us who lived
at Hobdale when I was a child, the grassy valley below the houses was
generally referred to as Sanderson’s or Sandy’s Field, named after the
farmer who kept a few cows, sheep and chickens in it. The little stream
at the bottom was merely “the Beck”, pronounced “t’ Beck” in the local
dialect. Hobdale Terrace was, still is, an isolated row of twelve
attached two storey brick houses set amidst sloping fields on the road
between Boosbeck and Skelton.
For me, as a child, the fields behind Hobdale Terrace formed a
world in microcosm. There I experienced adventures of all kinds, alone
or with my friend, Maurice, a boy who lived a few doors away from my
grandparents’ house. Sometimes we were joined by my pretty, dark-curled
younger cousin, Suzanne. We entered this perfect playground, undesigned
and unfurnished by any official expert, by climbing over a low,
neglected wooden fence made hazardous by rusty nails and bits of barbed
wire. From there the rough grass-covered ground sloped irregularly down
to the largely invisible, but faintly audible beck, its course indicated
by the water-loving plants that flourished on its banks.
The slopes on the other side were steeper, part of the hillside
showing signs of slippage. A small landslip scar there revealed the clay
which mantles this part of the country. I learned later that the clay,
and much else in the local landscape, is a legacy of the last Ice Age.
As a child, I was unaware of how the valley had come into being. It was,
for me, just a place full of fascination, a place to explore, a place
of adventure; the ideal location in which to act out fantasies seen at
‘the pictures’ on the screen of the Empire, Boosbeck’s barn-like cinema.
It was cowboy and Indian country where small boys galloped on their
imagined horses, their mouthed gunshots sounding across the canyon.
Feathers shed by Sanderson’s chickens made fine head-dresses when stuck
in the hair of the Indians who roamed this Yorkshire Wild West. They
also could be used to create interesting objects when handfuls were
stuck into some of the cow pats that dotted the grass, a kind of organic
art work, I suppose. The good supply of feathers was probably due to
foxes which took full advantage of the free ranging chickens.
While we fired our two-finger guns or toy pistols and shot our
home-made bows and arrows without getting into trouble, as lumber jacks
modelled on a screen drama we had seen, Maurice and I had a disturbing
brush with the law. As we understood from the “fillum”, cutting down
trees was a good thing to do. It was an honourable pursuit approved by
society, and there was something manly, exciting and glamorous about
bringing down a forest giant.
There were no forests in the immediate vicinity of Hobdale Terrace,
but at one end of the row of houses there was a narrow plantation of
tall mature trees. To cut down any of these seemed far beyond the
ability of two small boys, however. A more suitable candidate for
felling was found in the corner of Sandy’s field near the other end of
the terrace. This was a lone young tree that seemed ideal for our
purpose, its trunk narrow enough to offer the prospect of success. For
our axe we found a hatchet used in Maurice’s household for splitting
firewood. Taking turns, we began to hack away at the tree trunk which we
found far more resistant to our endeavours than we had anticipated. We
succeeded in making a notch near the base and, attacking from all sides,
managed to strip off a ring of bark. Whether it was the toughness of
the tree trunk, the bluntness of the axe or the puniness of our efforts
or a combination of all three, the tree stood firm. Unknown to us,
however, we had killed it, and our unwitting crime had been observed and
reported.
Among the things that Maurice and I did not know when we embarked
on our lumberjacking was that ringbarking was a common method of killing
trees and that our selected tree had been deliberately planted in
memory of someone now dead. We had no idea that anyone planted trees;
trees just grew and were there to climb or to cut down. True, we were
aware of trees that grew in plantations. There was a plantation next to
Hobdale Terrace and another next to our school in Boosbeck, but for us
The Plantation or “t’Planty”, was just a name. It was like t’Beck or
Sandy’s field, merely signifying a place. A tree, like a plantation was
just an object in the landscape, part of the setting in which one lived,
a given. Origins entered not into our thoughts.
The local policeman, however, entered into our lives, causing
consternation in two Hobdale households. I fear that, in a display of
weak moral fibre, I attempted to deflect adult ire by putting all the
blame on my friend, Maurice, contending that it was his axe and his
idea. Too young to be brought before the magistrate, we were just given a
severe talking to, even this mild punishment convincing us that life
could be very unfair at times.
WARTIME ENGLAND
Here on the southern fringe of greater London, I was to
experience war, with the sirens and air-raids, the blackout and
shortages. We lived in the path of the German bombers headed for London
and close to Biggin Hill, one of the most famous of the British fighter
aircraft bases that sent up Spitfires and Hurricanes to intercept the
enemy planes. With my father a soldier serving overseas, my mother faced
war on the home front alone with me, her infant son.
Together we endured the air-raids, the nights filled with anxiety,
although I was, perhaps, too young and unaware to feel fear. Indeed, for
me a night air-raid was something exciting. With German aircraft
droning overhead, my mother would snatch me from my slumber and stand by
the window, holding me in her arms. Outside in the blackout, the night
was dark, though searchlight beams and tell-tale lights in the sky
hinted at the deadly conflict taking place above us. Like some other
neighbours, we had in the back garden an Anderson air-raid shelter, its
sunken concrete walls and curved corrugated galvanized iron roof
designed to protect us in times such as this.
I have a vague memory of having taken refuge there once during the
war, possibly with both my parents and my Aunt Sue, my mother’s sister,
who lived with us for a while. It must have been either before my father
joined the army or during a period of leave. I can still remember
faintly the earthy smell and the dark, cramped environment. With my
father gone, however, my mother preferred to face Hitler’s bombs above
ground rather than put up with the discomfort and dirt of an air-raid
shelter. Her horror of spiders and especially mice, which she believed
made their home in the shelter, was far greater than her fear of the
Luftwaffe.
To my delight, an air-raid brought the prospect of a visit to
neighbours who lived just across the street and who, like us, remained
in their home during these emergencies. At these times my mother would
leave our bungalow and, in the darkness, hurry across the road with me
to knock on the door of a similar one diagonally opposite. A family of
three lived there, the father not serving in the armed forces, possibly
because his very short stature made him ineligible to join up. I recall
that he carried out duties on the home front, something to do with the
ARP, the Air Raid Precautions civil defence organization.
He and his wife had a son, Peter, a boy a year or two older than I,
who had two things in his possession for which I envied him greatly.
These were a splendid model of a Catalina flying boat and a toy
telephone. Air-raids gave me the opportunity to enjoy these prized items
for a while. The Catalina was something that I could look at but
“mustn’t touch”, and I gazed with fascination at this aircraft that was
also a boat. I am not sure that I had ever seen a real telephone,
except, possibly the kind provided in public telephone boxes. The main
attraction of the toy phone was the mechanism which made a wonderful
ringing noise when you turned it with a finger in one of the holes on
the dial. I suspect that, as usual, the adults did not share my
enthusiasm for this entertainment.
The neighbourly get-together was not all fun and there were times
when we cowered under a table as the enemy action came closer. The
occasional bomb dropped in our vicinity but we escaped the horrific
pounding that London’s East End received. The conflagration that this
intensive bombing caused was visible for miles around and I remember
seeing one night the ominous red glow on the horizon where raging fires
illuminated the clouds above the burning city. We were all in the front
room, looking out of the bay window and I was in my mother’s arms as we
stared into the night towards the glowing sky. “Some poor so-and-so’s
getting it” are words I vaguely remember from this occasion.
My mother and I did not live continuously in Kent during the war.
From time to time we returned to Hobdale, travelling in the train,
always crowded with men in uniform, from London’s King’s Cross Station
to Middlesbrough. These wartime movements between North and South
account for my attending three different infants’ schools, starting with
the one at Boosbeck and including two in the Orpington area.
Once, on a return from Yorkshire, we arrived at St Mary Cray to
find that the railway station had suffered bomb damage. A V-1 flying
bomb or “doodlebug” had dropped nearby, narrowly missing the station.
Its explosion left a crater on a small piece of open ground separating
some houses from the railway line. For a while, the bomb crater beside
St Mary Cray Station served as one of my favourite playgrounds. While
ignorant of the laws of physics, including those relating to gravity and
centrifugal force, I learned by experiment that by running quickly
around the inside of that conical depression, I could easily maintain my
position high on the steep slope, being pulled towards the bottom of
the hole only when I slowed down.
Another of my favourite play areas was a bombsite that formed a
weedy, grass-grown gap in the row of houses on one side of Little John
Road. A school friend of mine, John by name and short for his age, lived
in a house that adjoined the vacant lot and we often played there
together. I was alone, however, when from that spot I witnessed an
historical event.
The V-2 rocket bomb was the second of Hitler’s secret weapons that
struck terror into the beleaguered British population towards the end of
the war. Unlike the V-1, it flew so high and fast that you knew nothing
about it until it arrived. One of these fell when I was playing on the
Little John Road bombsite. I must have heard the explosion a mile away
and, looking up, I saw clearly the column of smoke that rose from it
somewhere in the vicinity of Orpington’s Court Road. Having seen plenty
of wartime action on the cinema screen, I was fully cognizant of what to
do in these circumstances and I threw myself to the ground, covering my
head with my hands. I was too far away from the blast for it to have
endangered me, but others were less fortunate. Several people died in a
house that received a direct hit. I learned this many years later. I
also learned, long after, that it happened on the afternoon of March 27,
1945 and that it was the very last V-2 to fall on Britain. It was the
month before my seventh birthday.
Even in Cleveland we could not escape the war. There were times
when we took shelter under the stairs and the dining table at Hobdale
when enemy bombers threatened. Though not in the thick of things like
London, industrial Teesside was bombed and the threat of invasion seemed
ever present. Just as there were concrete tank traps around St Mary
Cray Station, there were barbed wire defences on the beaches at Saltburn
and Redcar. Three of my four Hobdale uncles joined the army, the one
who didn’t remaining in his essential job of miner in Van’s Pit, helping
to produce the iron urgently needed for the war effort. One, Uncle
Jack, was for a prisoner of war in Germany for a long time.
JAMAICA
I quickly fell in love with the island where the
brilliant light and intense tropical colours are so different from the
softly illuminated greens and greys that typify my homeland. There were
some familiar features that helped make me feel at home in that exotic
country. It was on a drive to Mandeville, with my future father-in-law
at the wheel of the family Austin Cambridge, that I first saw in Jamaica
field walls built of rough limestone blocks. I found it both strange
and reassuring to see these familiar drystone walls, resembling those of
the Yorkshire Dales and the Cotswolds, here in a tropical Caribbean
landscape.
Another family excursion took us high into the Blue Mountains that
rise dramatically behind Kingston. The Hicklings and some of their
relatives had rented a holiday house for a weekend. The place was
reached by narrow roads that wound through deep valleys, crossed boulder
strewn torrents, twisted up steep hills and clung to the sides of
precipitous ridges. I was amazed by the way in which even the steepest
slopes were farmed, the humble cottages of the local inhabitants perched
on seemingly inaccessible sites on the mountainsides.
Along the way we passed through rural villages where local stores
and bars fronted the road, with the occasional church and school tucked
in among the other buildings. Banana, coconut, breadfruit, mango and
other fruit trees were everywhere, and brilliant blossoms of all kinds
spilled over walls and fences to add a variety of colour to the mountain
greenery. Even some of the overhead electricity or telephone cables
provided footholds for epiphytic plant life in this tropical climate,
turning the wires into strange festoons that spanned the road in places.
The air was noticeably cooler at our mountaintop cottage and, as
the sun began to set, the temperature dropped enough to send some of the
party to search among their bags for warmer clothes. Sunset bathed the
landscape in a suffused rosy light. Spread out far below us, Kingston
lay beside its mirror like harbour, the shining water framed by the low,
dark outline of the Hellshire Hills and the long narrow finger of the
Palisadoes spit. Beyond, the darkening Caribbean Sea extended to the
horizon where the sky glowed pink. The last evening light glimmered in
the amber of the glass I held in my hand and, with the taste of rum on
my lips, I felt a warm glow inside. Darkness fell, and the twinkling
lights of Kingston marked the place that was to be my new home.
* * *
Biographical Note: Brian
Hudson was born in 1938 in Skelton-in-Cleveland, England. He spent most
of his childhood and teenage years in the outer London suburb of
Orpington, Kent, but during World War 2, while his father served in the
British army, he and his mother divided their time between the Cleveland
district of Yorkshire and his parental home in Kent. A graduate of the
University of Liverpool, Brian was living in that city when it rose to
world fame for its popular music scene. He was a founder member of Cass
and the Cassanovas, a pioneer Merseyside beat group which played a small
role in The Beatles story. This period of his life is described in his
memoir ‘How I Didn’t Become a Beatle’ (The History Press, 2008).
Since the mid 1960s, Brian has lived in various parts of the world,
including Ghana, Hong Kong, Jamaica, Grenada and Australia, working
mainly as an urban and regional planner and university lecturer and
researcher. He is now an Adjunct Professor in the School of Urban
Development, Queensland University of Technology, Brisbane, Australia.
Brian and his wife are grandparents.
Brian’s latest book is ‘Whe’ Yu’ From?’ (Garliford Publishing, 2011: www.garliford.com), and is available both as a paperback and in ebook format.